A lot has been already been written about MEATliquor, both online and in the printed press; common themes include long queues, obscenely loud music and decor that tries hard to be offensive (……but the burgers are great). I went on a freezing Monday night so thankfully I didn’t need to queue for too long (circa 20 minutes) – there was no hand stamping regime to manage the queues but there was a very grumpy bouncer manning the front door. The dining room is hot, dark, very noisy and slightly chaotic, with bizarre anti-capitalist decor that looks as if it has been produced by a trendy design agency. On entering, you are ushered to the bar to wait again and enjoy a cocktail (the waitress forgot about us so we waited a bit longer than usual – I suggest you badger her until she offers you a table). The menu is very simple – it is a selection of ten burgers, a chilli dog and chicken wings (all reasonably priced at £6.50 to £8). There are four kinds of chips (fries) ranging from unadorned to “Phili” which drapes them in steak, onions, mushrooms and cheese. I chose the Dead Hippie: apparently the name derives from visits the chef made to the Burning Man festival in the Nevada desert – an event that attracts a lot of brain dead hippies. It consisted of two beef burgers, cheese, pickles and finely chopped white onions, all piled between a light sticky bun. The burgers were perfectly cooked with a rich pinkness in their centre – the mince was fresh and fatty, lending a beautifully moist finish. It is certainly one of the best burgers I have eaten in London. The fries and slaw were acceptable and nothing more than that, but the onion rings were really fantastic – they were sweet and tangy, housed in a light batter.
Verdict: Just about the best burgers in town.
Dead Hippie, Slaw, Cheese Fries and Onion Rings.