John Salt is a hipster bar on Upper Street with food prepared by a former Pitt Cue Co. chef – this means that the menu consists of lots of smoked meat and not a whole lot of namby pamby vegetables. We went for Sunday brunch – the menu consisted of various kinds of hash (chicken, pork and beef) all served with Yorkshire pudding, roasted vegetables and gravy. They are certainly aiming at the hangover cure market because the food was piled high and was anything but subtle. We started with crab and fennel on pork skin which had a nice mix of textures: sickly and crunchy pork contrasting with clean, sharp fennel and very fresh crab meat. The pork belly hash was a mountain of food – the centerpiece was beautifully melt in the mouth pork belly, with slithers of crispy crackling sprinkled around it; the co-star was a Yorkshire pud which was light and had a decent texture. This was served with roasted vegetables which were a tad overdone but still very tasty (I think they had been cooked in beef dripping) – parsnips, carrots and potatoes and a thick gravy.
Verdict: simple, hearty and very unhealthy comfort food.
Crab and fennel on pork skin
Pork belly and shoulder with black pudding